A recent visitor, now a well known journalist, was astonished to find high quality restaurants, suite type accommodation and a cafe bar culture in the town of Agios Nikolaos in Eastern Crete. His memories of the town in the 1970's were of streets packed with 18-30 tourists, bar crawls and cheap studio rooms. "Desperate youngsters would even pay to sleep on the roof of a hotel in those days, just to be part of the "Ag Nik" scene for a week", he said. " The difference in the place is almost unbelievable". Chic cafe bars have now replaced the cheap booze with skinny lattes and fredo capuccinos and the burger joints have given way to some of the finest cuisine in the eastern Mediterranean. One local restauranteur, Manolis, described the fare as "traditional Cretan dishes with a contemporary twist, a mixture of mezes and nouvelle cuisine". The success of his operation, housed in a neo-classical building, proves that the visiting clientelle have changed dramatically and are demanding far more than simple taverna food.
Elounda, just 10Km to the north of Agios Nikolaos, has recently achieved renewed fame due to the
worldwide bestseller "The Island", by Victoria Hislop. Despite new developments and luxury hotels on the shoreline opposite Spinalonga island, former Venetian stronghold and last leper colony in Europe, the small village of Plaka still retains its charm. Fresh fish tavernas now line the small area which was used, in more unhappy times, to supply the lepers with food and medical supplies. The main resort of Elounda, correctly called Schisma, nestles around the old harbour where fishermen still repair their nets and assess the day's catch. Back towards Agios Nikolaos is the luxury hotel area, containing the Elounda Beach, Elounda Bay, Elounda Mare, Elounda Peninsular, Elounda Gulf and Porto Elounda. Some of the most exclusive hotels in the world are found along this small strip of coastline. Private yachts and helicopters regularly bring in guests from the world of music and theatre, political leaders, business moguls, sportsmen and other celebrities.
The recent interest in Ago-tourism and Eco-tourism has also seen a movement towards the inland areas of the island. Producing fine organic wines and, officially, the best olive oil in the world, Crete has benefited from European Union investment to develop an awareness of the traditional crafts and produce of the island. Towns such as Archanes, just 20 minutes from the main airport at Heraklion, have invested heavily in refurbishing traditional cottages and creating a "green" tourism option, away from the coast and beaches that have always been the target of large tour perators. Small independent wineries are building a reputation amongst wine merchants across the world, whilst the larger co-operatives and producers are experimenting with new grape varieties to secure their future and expand into a wider market. New roads now link the main east-west National highway with the south of the island, opening up not only export routes but also giving access to the Libyan Sea coast, with tamarisk lined beaches and coves. There you will find Matala, where the hippies lived in caves cut out of the rock and about which Joni Mitchell wrote the iconic "Carey".
Despite the changes, the Cretan concept of "Filoxenia" is still there. Vistors are welcomed and spoonfuls of candied fruit accompany strong black coffee or small glasses of raki, the local spirit distilled from grapes, when you enter a house. It is frowned upon, in local culture, to offer to pay for hospitality such as this and any breach of etiquette is dealt with firmly, usually by the man of the house. It is said that you can never starve in Crete because the people will not allow anyone to go hungry, preferring to share their own portion than to see someone go without. Perhaps there is a lesson to be learned for the more "advanced" cultures there? The older Cretan people have changed little in the last 50 years, but the younger generation, fuelled by access to television, magazines and a consumer led society, are, in many ways, becoming assimilated into the western view of the world. Most teenagers now have new cars or motorcycles, where just 15 years ago, they were lucky if they were allowed to borrow their father's 20 year old pick-up truck for a visit to town. Brides now demand a newly built house, fitted with double glazing, dishwasher, microwave oven and central heating, where there mothers were content to inherit the family home, complete with in-laws. The young people are better educated, many going on to Universities in other countries to complete their studies. It is difficult to persuade a 25 year old Doctor, who has graduated in London or New York, to return to a village where the average age of the population is over 80 and the wage is less than half of that in other countries.
Tourism still accounts for a considerable proportion of income for the island. Some of the younger
generation are persuading their parents and grandparents to look to the future, although it is difficult to explain that the needs of the tourists have changed since the early days when a bed was all that was required. With some 70% of incoming tourism being generated through internet bookings, those who have embraced the new technology and adapted to changing tourism patterns are reaping the rewards. It is a process of evolution which will leave some Cretans behind. Large complexes of all inclusive hotels are destroying the trade for local tavernas and bars which have traditionally paid their staff on commission. Less casual staff arrive every year to fill unskilled positions, and with increasing fuel, social insurance and taxation costs, the small coffee shops and traditional tavernas are finding it hard going. How much longer the old style kafeneions and souvlaki shops will be able to survive is anyone's guess, but the resilience of the owners might just pull them through.
So what will these former backpackers find when they get to Crete? The returning visitor will certainly notice some dramatic changes, but many of the core values and attitudes which were so fundamental in former times still remain in the hearts of the Cretan people. They are proud, generous, stubborn and fiercely independent. They can be off-hand, condescending, kind, caring and rude, almost simultaneously. That is what makes them Cretan. And it is these people that make Crete what it is. The Great Island.